Saturday, November 26, 2005

Travelling With Your Dog

“Man Burned Trying To Save Dog

July 27, 2001

By KOMO Staff & News Services
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK - He gave it his all to try to save his faithful family friend. A Shoreline man was treated for burns after he tried to rescue the family dog from a thermal pool in Yellowstone National Park. Thirty-nine-year-old Donald Hansen was taken to the University of Utah's Intermountain Burn Center in Salt Lake City after the incident Thursday afternoon. Hansen was treated for first- and second-degree burns from his elbows down and for first-degree burns to his knees. He was released Friday.
The Labrador, named Mocha, didn't survive. Mocha had jumped into the nearly 200-degree pool in the Lower Geyser Basin after bolting from the family's motor home. Park officials say Hansen was able to grab the dog, but couldn't hang on because of the heat.”

Once a year my extended family goes on vacation. This year, we went to California. Of course, we brought the dogs, too!

Taking your dog on a summer vacation with you requires some advance preparation.

I am NOT a believer in flying dogs unless you are very careful about it. It is risky. If your dog gets lost along the way, say the airline puts the dog on the wrong flight, or gets stuck on some 100 degree runway, your dog would die. They will even shoot a dog that escapes onto a runway if they can’t get it back. I would consider flying if I had one of the miniature breeds that can fly with you in one of those tiny carry on fabric crates, or if I took a midnight non-stop flight to my destination.

It is worth considering the weather. Some dog breeds, like Pugs, don’t do well in hot temperatures, and others don’t do well in the cold. When choosing a dog, I always pick a breed that can handle hot weather, since I normally take vacations in the summer. I also take extra pains to get my dog in excellent shape before I leave town. A dog in good shape can handle hot weather better than one that is flabby and out of shape. They also handle the stresses of a trip better when they are in shape.

Hotels are also a major consideration. I make a special effort to find hotels that take pets. I want a first floor room, since it is quieter for the other guests if my dog plays in the room. I want a door near an exit, so I have an easier time of loading and unloading. I also want a room AWAY FROM THE LOBBY to make pottying easier and to be as inconspicuous as possible. I always assume that the hotel manager might not like dogs, so I try to be as invisible as possible.

Of course, I also brush up on my dog’s training and manners before I leave town. There is a serious risk that something bad can happen while on the road, since you and your dog are in unfamiliar situations! I tell this to people all the time. Unfortunately, some don’t believe me, and don’t take their training as seriously as I recommend.

I remember one customer, while we were halfway into the obedience training classes, saying “Well, I really didn’t want my dog to obey; I just wanted to give him an activity to do, so I signed up for lessons.” I remember thinking to myself, “HUH?! You paid all that money just to go through the motions? Don’t you realize that every dog eventually gets away from the owner? Don’t you love your dog enough to protect him through training?” I tried to explain the dangers to them, but they didn’t believe me. (Hmm, no wonder they only put in a halfhearted effort on the daily homework...) For me, I want INSTANT responses in dangerous situations, and I don’t want to have any hassles on trails, in the city, in the car, in the hotel room, elevators, hallways, or anywhere else!

My dog’s training was really useful a couple of weeks ago at the beach in Carmel, CA. It is an off leash beach (ever wonder why we can’t do that here?!) Dillon was having a grand old time with me, and at the same time visiting with other dogs. However, from time to time, I needed to call him back to me since he occasionally intimidates shy dogs because he is so confident and friendly. I called and he’d come back to me and walk with me until I released him to go and play with another dog.

When traveling, I am always concerned that Dillon gets enough exercise. When you are on a road trip, there are often days when you are just blowing by a lot of miles just to get to your next destination. So, for hours on end, your dog is laying there in the car doing nothing. If you have an active dog, s/he is going to be bouncing off the walls for lack of exercise when you get settled into your hotel room at night. That’s why it pays to teach your dog to play fetch. Then, you can find a small patch of grass somewhere nearby and burn off all that “steam” before bedtime.

Every trip, I always bring along chew toys and play toys. Dogs get bored, and if you have them in the habit of chewing a toy when they are bored, then that goes a long way towards keeping them out of trouble in the car and in the hotel room. I prefer Nylabones (plastic and edible ones), rubber bones, Kongs and rope toys. I bring a small variety so that I can rotate toys from day to day.

It is my philosophy that I want to make every day a good day for my dog, whether on vacation or not. Every trip is planned in such a way that my dog gets to do things along the way that will be enjoyable for him. Hikes, city walks, exercise/ play sessions, and personal time are all included.

I am especially careful in where I park the vehicle. I look for shady spots, places where the dog can walk on grass instead of hot pavement, covered parking garages, shady sides of buildings, and other sheltered areas. You have to know how well your dog can handle both cold and hot weather, and how fast your car heats up and cools down in order to do this properly. You will read that you shouldn’t ever leave your dog in a parked car… but that’s not accurate. Really it is no different than what a police, military, search and rescue, etc. dog goes through. You just have to be smart about it. In my daily life with my dog, he goes everywhere with me, and is in the vehicle during every appointment, throughout the year, regardless of the weather. Just remember, you should never leave a dog unattended in a car unless you have made plans to make sure the dog is going to be 100% safe. Here are some ideas:

Use a crate so that s/he can’t tear up the car or escape;

Stay out of the direct sunlight when parking the vehicle. If the vehicle is in direct sunlight, say at a restaurant, put all the windows down, park in a space where you can see the car from inside the restaurant, and check on your dog after 15 minutes, right after you order your meal, and again during the meal, or if you are concerned, just to see how things are going.

Put a thermometer in the car. You can buy them at pet stores in the reptile section. The programmable ones will record high and low temperatures, plus humidity. This is invaluable for determining your dog’s comfort and safety.

Put 1/2 water/ ice in a bowl in the crate. And bring lots of extra water. You can douse a hot dog’s head with water if you fear s/he is getting overheated.

KNOW YOUR DOG AND VEHICLE. Not all dogs do well in heat, so it might be that you can’t travel with them. Not all vehicles do well in direct sunlight, and can heat up excessively. I’ve never had a problem, but I am ESPECIALLY diligent in supervising my dog’s welfare, and I sacrifice some of my comfort and convenience for my dog’s safety.

I bring a first aid book (yes, I have already read it!) and kit on every trip. I also make sure my dog’s vaccinations are up-to-date, have my dog microchipped and bring photos (.jpg format) on a CD or DVD in case my dog ever escaped or was stolen so I could make up lost dog posters.

Bring lots of old bath towels. They absorb a lot of dirt that would otherwise end up in your car, they provide padding in the crate, and are necessary in case of a major mess (like vomit).

I have used a professional kennel on a trip. Last year, I went to Sea World in San Diego. I knew that the parking lot wasn’t shady, and it was predicted to be hot and sunny. Before I left town, I asked around for referrals. I located an air-conditioned kennel in San Diego. I made reservations there before I left, and everything worked out great that day. I knew Dillon was safe, and therefore I could relax and have fun at the park.

Be sure to bring your own food, unless you are SURE that you can buy the same brand and type along the way. An abrupt change in diet will often lead to diarrhea. I have my dog on a premium dog food that is hard to find. So, I fill up lots of Ziploc baggies with fresh kibble and stuff them under the seats to keep them cool. I bring more food than I know that I will need, just in case some of it is lost or destroyed, or in case the trip is unexpectedly lengthened.

Kids, relatives and other dogs… don’t let your dog become the punching bag. Also, don’t endanger others with your dog. I had a call from someone the other day that wanted me to work with their dog, to make him not growl at children even when the children were abusing the dog! She went on to describe how her 2 1/2 year old nephew had poked her dog in the eye, pulled on its tail, yanked its ears, and did other things that caused the dog pain, which then caused the dog to growl. I’m sure she was offended by what I had to say, since I told her that children needed to be supervised and corrected when they were hurting a dog. You can’t expect a dog to be in constant pain through abuse, regardless of the age of the abuser, and to not eventually defend themselves! This isn’t the same as having a dog that is tolerant of the normal roughhousing that all dogs get when around small children. It is important to choose a dog that is tolerant of children. But even the most tolerant dogs can’t take abuse and will eventually defend themselves.

I’ve also had customers that put their dogs in with relatives dogs, without a proper greeting, with dogs that weren’t normally good with other dogs and a major dog fight broke out. In one instance, the daughter’s mixed bred Bulldog got in a fight with the mother’s two Chow Chows. The mother reached in to stop the fight and was dragged down into the turmoil by her own dogs and was severely bitten about her inside thighs and groin. What makes this all the more troubling was that both people KNEW that their dogs were dog fighters, but they still put them all in together and assumed that everything would be just fine.

I have also had calls from people with dogs that didn’t like children or strangers… but they brought their dogs along on vacation, and without warning or protecting their relatives, put the dogs down in the midst of everyone, only to have someone get bitten. It would have been better to just board the dog at home, or to keep it in a crate while visiting, instead of endangering others.

It is important to consider potty stops, constipation, and water requirements when on a road trip. Younger dogs, under 1 1/2 years old, might not be truly trustworthy when in the hotel room, so you have to exercise greater supervision and bring along your clean up materials. Older dogs might have to urinate more frequently, so you have to plan on making extra potty stops along the way for your dog. With the relative lack of normal exercise on a road trip, plus the fact that your dog will probably be slightly dehydrated (from dry air, plus dogs will eat and drink less on vacation) on a long road trip, your dog will become somewhat constipated. I encourage my dog to drink water at every potty stop. Exercise will help the dog to eliminate normally during the trip, as well. Sometimes a restless dog in a hotel room, is just one that has to potty.

When you are in your hotel rooms, and while visiting friends and relatives, be sure to supervise your dog. I take extra precautions to keep my dog out of my suitcase since I have medicines and things in there that could be harmful if swallowed. I also don’t want my dog destroying anything in the room. And, when you are visiting people, you can’t expect that harmful things aren’t lying around for your dog to get into or eat. I don’t let my guard down, just as if I was babysitting a 3 year old. I also teach my dog not to go into hotel bathrooms as an added safety precaution.

One of the main benefits of taking your dog on a trip is that you will improve your relationship with your dog. I can’t describe it very well, but I have noticed that every time I have taken one of my dogs on vacation with me, they came back a better dog. I noticed more attentiveness, more affection, better obedience, a happier attitude, more trust… just an all around better relationship. And it is good for me, too. I get to unwind and just be my dog’s friend and pal for a few uninterrupted days.

NOW is the time to start planning for your next vacation. Train your dog. Make detailed plans. Do a few short road trips for practice… and then you’re going to have a great time together when the big event happens! Happy Travelling!

Written in the Spring of 2001

Thursday, November 24, 2005

Long Beach Legalizes Dog Breeding... Do We Really Want Laws Micromanaging Dog Ownership?

Here’s how wacky the Far Left is when it comes to pets.

The city of Long Beach, CA has now decided to make dog breeding LEGAL in the city.

Legal.

You need a law to make breeding a dog legal?

How overregulated do we want our society?

Here’s the story…

“LONG BEACH -- Dog breeding will soon be legal in the city, although an ordinance that the City Council adopted on a first reading Tuesday will put restrictions on the practice.”

Here are the objections from some kind of local animal organization which opposed making breeding legal:

a.) “dog breeding could increase the chances that impounded dogs will be euthanized”

b.) “increasing the dog population through breeding will add to the number of unwanted pets picked up by the Long Beach Animal Control Bureau. Too many unwanted pets, the group argued, could lead to more euthanasia”

The assumption here is if this regulation legalizes breeding in Long Beach (and you are only allowed to breed one litter per year), there is going to be such a huge explosion of new dogs that the shelters will have to put down tons of otherwise healthy, but unwanted dogs. Isn’t that insane?

Aren’t these the lamest excuses you’ve ever heard?

No wonder the City Council rejected these claims. They just weren’t credible.

This is what the wacko animal rights movement has done to our right to reasonably own a dog. As I’ve said before, the agenda of animal rights wackos is the extinction of the domestic dog. Make no mistake about that. They will say anything, do anything, to stop you from owning a dog. If they can ban breeding, then they can eliminate dogs and dog ownership. Are you not willing to stand up and fight back?

Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Abusive Dog Training

Dear Sir,

Last week I took my Aussie mix to a dog obedience class. This pup is 6 months old, a very loving dog, he loves everyone and all other dogs.. His biggest problem is being restrained and threw a fit at the vet's when he was about to be x-rayed So, anyway the first thing the trainer asked everyone to do was to lay their dog down and hold him down. I was having a problem getting Luke down and suddenly the trainer was there, roughly trying to hold down Luke. Luke nipped him, he did draw some blood, but in a second the trainer had him in the air on a choke collar, till he went limp, almost passed out, pooped himself and his lips were blue. I was SICK!!! And in shock, because I couldn't move, I just kept looking at Luke who was drooling like crazy. And was scared to death of the trainer and tryed to get up on the seat with me. Oh, and for the next 2 days, all Luke did was lay around.

I did take him to the vet, she said, his neck was tight and probably very stiff. Some people have told me hanging a dog is an accepted way of training, I DO NOT feel this is correct, am I wrong? And if the trainer is wrong, is there anything I can do about it? I am not taking him back to that class, many of the people there were also shocked at what happened, and one of them even said she won't bring her dog back. Well, anyway, thank you for your time, XXXXX

Hi XXXXX

I think it is animal abuse. The dog was cornered by a stranger and reacted by defending itself. Then the dog strung up. Don't go back to that class.

This kind of garbage still happens in classes, as your letter demonstrates. The problem with going to the police is if a.) your dog isn't materially injured; b.) the trainer fights you back in court with a defamation / libel / slander lawsuit, YOU could be the one that ends up losing here. If you decide to proceed with making a complaint to law enforcement, you need to talk to your attorney first. "Hanging" would only be justified if the dog was actively trying to attack a human and there was no way of defending oneself except to hold onto the leash for dear life. Hanging is not a training method. It is solely a last resort way of defending yourself from being mauled. This clearly doesn't qualify. Your dog was afraid. The solution would have been to slow things down and build the trust between you and your dog. That has to come before you consider dominating a dog, especially one that was already showing signs of fighting restraint at the vet's office. Even the vets were wrong to pin the dog down for x-rays, unless it was a life or death type of procedure. I always attend to x-rays with my dog, if at all possible, and if I suspect my dog wouldn't take to being pinned down by a stranger... not an unlikely scenario when you get the types of dogs that I prefer such as a Bouvier, Doberman, etc. In your case, a typical Aussie would normally allow x-rays by strangers, but if the dog is worried about the procedure, then it would have been better to stop the x-rays, go home and work on getting your dog comfortable being placed on its back, and then going to the vet at a later date and helping them do the x-rays. A good vet would work with you and your dog to make sure the experience was a positive one. Now, this dog has twice been pinned down by strangers, which is going to make it harder and harder in the future to get this dog to trust certain procedures. I have no idea if the hanging your dog experienced will cause brain damage or lasting behavioral problems, but it is a concern.

Contrary to popular belief, you cannot "correct" aggression this way. The "correction" your dog received isn't a behaviorally sound way of dealing with biting. It won't prevent a repeat of the same situation in the future.

I wish you and your dog well. Find another trainer. Get references!


Sam Basso
www.samthedogtrainer.com


Dogs & Thanksgiving Holiday

Aren’t you glad that it is Thanksgiving Holiday tomorrow? I am.

Here are some thoughts regarding Dogs and Thanksgiving:

Don’t trust dogs and guests unsupervised. Many people, including friends and family members, might try to “teach your dog a lesson” while you aren’t watching, play dangerous rough games, play “sic ‘em” games, give your dog dangerous toys, or try to feed your dog things that are lethal. NO WRESTLING GAMES WITH THE DOG!!!!

Exercise your dog before guests arrive, mid day, and early evening. A tired dog is a good dog. Be sure to let your dog rest an hour before you feed, and don’t exercise your dog unless you’ve waited at least 3 hours after a meal. Bloat and torsion are killers.

Have a plan to take the dog outside to potty on regular intervals. When you are entertaining guests, or you are visiting with your dog, it is too easy to forget who is supposed to be taking the dog outside to potty, and what time it is. Have a plan on who is going to watch the dog.

Don’t trust dogs and kids unsupervised. Kids need parents to supervise them. They can’t supervise themselves. The last thing you need is a dog bite/ attack on a kid who was pestering your dog.

Dogs don’t need lots of holiday food scraps. Some healthy tid bits are OK, but no big gobs of fat (don’t give your dog a whole turkey skin… it can kill some dogs), chocolate, raisins, grapes, onions, spicy food, turkey bones, etc. When in doubt, don’t give a holiday food to a dog.

Know the phone number and location of the nearest emergency animal clinic. Your vet will be closed for the holidays. If your dog is sickened by anything, or injured, don’t wait until Friday to get your dog to the vet… it will be too late, and your dog will be dead.

Some holiday foods are toxic to dogs.

Watch the doors! Many dogs run away during holiday times. It is a good idea to have your dog drag a 6 foot leash while the guests are at your home. Take off the leash if the dog is unsupervised, and put your dog in its crate or kennel. Don’t tie the dog to a fixed object with the leash. Let the dog drag the leash so it can be with everyone.

Warn Guests If Certain Things Cause Your Dog To Growl Or Bite!

Be mindful of the weather! Is your dog safe outside? Is the fence gate closed and locked? Are there dangerous objects or toys in the yard? Is it pouring down rain or snow? Does your dog have adequate shelter? In some situations, it is better to have a crate in your vehicle for the dog. Just make sure you monitor the temperatures, and leave ventilation for the dog. Sunlight can heat up a car to dangerous temperatures even in cold weather. And at night, the car can get too cold for your dog to withstand. The rule is: if you’d be comfortable sitting in that situation with your dog, with summer clothing on, then your dog is probably safe.

Wackos take vicious dogs to parks off leash on holidays… be careful your dog isn’t attacked. And tell your kids to stay away from strange dogs at the park. Many times these are people visiting from other areas.

Make sure you have digital photos of your dog in case your dog runs away

Don’t let your dog play with your relatives dogs unless you are SURE they will get along! Strange dogs will fight, especially if one of the dogs is on its own home turf.

You can’t assume your family member’s houses are safe for your dog unsupervised. You pick up your stuff, and you know what your dog will get into. They don’t.

If you are visiting with your dog, assume your dog will potty in your host’s house. Supervise your dog!

Assume your dog will get in a fight with your extended family’s cat, hamster, rat, guinea pig, bird, dog, horse or other pet(s). Be especially careful if you have a puppy.

If you leave your dog at home, unsupervised, get a neighbor (someone the dog knows and is friendly with) or a dog walker to come by and check up on your dog. If your dog is a barker, a nasty neighbor might try to poison your dog while you are away. If you wait too long, your dog will potty in the home. If the weather gets bad, your dog could die.

Don’t expect your dog to act like a trained dog if your dog isn’t trained, or you haven’t been doing your obedience training homework. Don’t get mad at your dog for your lack of preparation!

-- Sam

Doggie Pictures

Getting A Dog That Doesn't Bark Much

Subject: dogs that don't bark

Hi Sam

I'm living on my own and would really love to have a little dog as a pet. Since my place is not very big I'm looking for a small dog. The only problem is that I know small dogs can be real barkers!! And I know my neighbors will complain if the dog is yapping all the time. I was wondering if you know of any breeds of dogs that don't bark. I heard of a dog called a basenji that doesn't bark but it seems to be a very active dog requiring a lot of space, so I wonder if you know of any others? Thank you.

Sincerely, XXXXX


Hi XXXXX,

There are a variety of dog breeds that bark more and less than others.

The causes of most barking are territoriality, fear, loneliness, and excitement. Your dog will bark a lot if it can see or hear people moving around outside your unit when you are gone. Your dog will bark more if the dog is timid. Your dog will bark if the dog has a tendency to feel very lonely when you are away. And your dog will tend to bark if your dog is excitable.

So... I suggest, first, not getting a puppy. You can't know how the dog is going to turn out. I'd rescue a 2+ year old adult dog, of whatever breed you like. By 2 years of age, you can pretty much be assured that what you see is what you get. So, for you , get a dog that is very friendly with everyone and isn't very territorial. Get a dog that is confident and friendly and not bothered by noises, people, traffic, being alone, etc. And get a dog that is a couch potato. I'd also get a dog that was already house trained. Tell this to the rescue group. If you go my way, you can make sure you have a quiet dog. And these days, you can figure a small dog will live at least 15, or maybe even 20 years, so you get lots of great time with the dog over the years.

But first, find a dog you like. Don't make barking the only criteria. A basenji will yodel... very loudly... if it wants to make noise. This should be a dog you want to live with. Make a list of the things you like in a dog, and then compare a variety of breeds... coat, good with kids, good with dogs, trainable, etc. Whatever traits you like in a dog. Then go to rescue groups and find a dog of that breed with the other things I mentioned to get one that isn't much of a barker or whiner.

Sam Basso

Hi Sam!

Thank you so much for the great reply.

Wow, those are a lot of clever tips!

Much appreciated, XXXXX

Who Should Dog Owners Vote For?

Here’s the best definition of what we should be striving for, politically, when voting for politicians. Candidate Questionnaires should get at what their political philosophy and track record have been regarding law enforcement, zoning, private property rights, and especially their views on dog ownership and animal control.

We should find and support candidates who believe in: “A minimum amount of government and a maximum amount of freedom -- and keeping government out of people's lives and business -- and leaving people alone… [A recognition] you have to have national defense and have to finance the government. But government does not have to be the be-all and end-all.”

We have too many, detailed, confusing laws on the books as it is. Now, politicians are focusing on writing dog laws, and they will make it so difficult, you’ll need an attorney to know whether you can tell your dog “No”.

Try going to anti-dog / dog hating web sites, and see the kinds of laws they are proposing regarding dogs: impossible dog barking statutes, breed specific dog bans, expensive insurance requirements, massive licensing schemes, animal rights provisions concerning guardianship, bans on dog parks, bans on dogs in public places, bans on dogs in parks and wilderness areas, bans on hunting dogs, dog size limitation restrictions, impossible zoning requirements for breeders and kennel operators, requirements for muzzling all dogs in public, dog ownership tests, and on and on.

Dog Ban Opposed By Dog Owners... See? We CAN Organize And Fight Unfair Legislation!

Tuesday, November 22, 2005

Myth Number Eight

Myth Number Eight: You should smack your dog if it defecates or urinates in your home, destroys your possessions, growls, gets on furniture, steals food, jumps on people, or is barking when you want the dog to be quiet.

Wrong!

Smacking a dog is a sure way to eventually turn your dog against you or other people. Smacking is oftentimes the beginning of creating a dog that bites people.

If you smack your dog around, one day your dog is going to bite someone. Most cases I have seen, the dog bites you or a family member. The bite won’t seem to be a justified bite when it happens, but you caused it. The dog will get blamed for your previous abuse. You can turn a perfectly normal dog into a vicious dog by such abusive training.

Shame on you! You know better!

Hire a professional dog trainer if you don’t know what to do!

Seven Dog Training Myths

There are many misconceptions and myths about dog training and behavior.

Myth Number One: prong collars cause dogs to be aggressive. Wrong.

You can make a fine meal with a knife, or you can kill someone with it. It is all about who is holding the knife. The same is true with all dog training equipment.

Myth Number Two: Treadmills make dogs aggressive. Wrong. Criminals use treadmills to get pit fighting dogs into top physical condition before a fight. But, let’s say you are injured and you want to keep your dog in top physical condition, or you need to exercise your working dog, you could use a dog treadmill to provide the exercise needed… just like you could have them swim to get in shape. The problem isn’t the treadmill, the problem is what the owner is then going to do with the dog.

Myth Number Three: If a dog tastes blood, it makes the dog vicious.

Wrong. Viciousness is a result of either abusive treatment of a dog, illness, or faulty genetics. In fact, many breeders feed their dogs “raw diets”, because they believe it is healthier than feeding dogs processed commercial foods. You don’t see these dogs on the raw diets becoming vicious. The two are in no way related.

Myth Number Four: Tug of war makes a dog aggressive.

Wrong. However, there is a proper way to play tug with a dog, and an improper way. If you do it wrong, then you can make the dog aggressive towards you.

Myth Number Five: The best way to train a dog is with _________ (fill in the blank… food, petting, toys, tug, leashes, metal collars, fabric collars, head halters, clicker training, etc.). There are some laws of behavior, which always work a certain way. On the other hand, there are various methods of applying those laws. That is why you see so many dog training books… and why I don’t recommend dog training books to my customers. You need to know quite a bit about all the different methods before you can knowledgably apply them… or give “expert” opinions about them.

Myth Number Six: When a dog “guards” a toy or its food bowl, sleeps on your bed, growls at you, goes out the door before you, or eats before you eat, these behaviors are a sure sign your dog is demonstrating dominance towards you.

Wrong.

Aggression is more complicated than this. And so is dominance. Most dog trainers and behaviorists have no clue concerning aggression or dominance.

There are many Dog Training Myths.

New Breed Ban Coming To Illinois?

“Tonight, county board members in McHenry County, Illinois, a rural area north-west of Chicago, are discussing what to do in response to pit bull attacks last month.” – www.DoggieNews.com

Bully Kutta: New Dog Fighting Breed

Do you want proof that breed bans won’t work?

There is a new fighting breed coming here from Asia.

It is called the Bully Kutta, a fighting dog from Pakistan. It looks like a large pit bull terrier. There are other new fighting dogs... the Guatemalan Bull Terrier, Gul Dong, Indian Bull Terrier... I could go on and on...

So, you ban one breed, and people can create a new one. I can create a new bull terrier breed by crossing a bulldog with a terrier. In Italy, they have already banned 92 breeds! Do you think that has stopped the gangs from fighting dogs there? Yeah, right.

The issue is animal abuse and crime, not the dogs. You have to get at the criminals to stop the pit fighting syndicates.

Pit fighting is an illegal and immoral blood sport. But you can’t stop it by banning breeds. You can always create a new breed by mixing other breeds together.

House Train Your Pup Properly!

Many experiments and studies have been performed concerning early socialization. With respect to dogs, socialization is the process by which a dog develops a Bond with a human, identifies itself as part of a human family, and develops relationships with people and animals. Puppies that aren't socialized turn out to be abnormally fearful and/or aggressive as adults. If you want your puppy to turn out to be a well adjusted adult, he/she must be exposed to a wide variety of non-threatening sights, sounds, people, animals, places and interesting experiences. They must also imprint and bond to people and animals, otherwise they will be permanently unable to relate to new social situations. The ideal time to adopt a puppy is at 8 weeks of age. This same process happens with humans, but over a longer span of time. Early abuse or neglect will wreck the adult... dog or human. Try studying why so many abused girls become prostitutes...it is the same process.

EXAMPLE: A new study links the lack of infant cuddling to the adult’s later inability to form healthy relationships. Here are a couple of excerpts:

“The scientists took 18 children aged around four and a half who had been born in orphanages and therefore missed out on the level of physical contact they might have had from a mother and father. All had since been adopted, some as many as three years ago, and been given plenty of love and affection. However, some continued to display strange behavior, such as being willing to seek comfort from a complete stranger, even if their adoptive parent was equally on hand.”

“Children who were seriously neglected in infancy can carry a physiological burden for years, even after moving to a loving environment. A study of their hormonal responses shows that their brains are less equipped to trust and form social bonds than other children.”

There is also a strong link between early childhood abuse and later drug abuse.

“Substantial evidence points to childhood victimization as a major risk factor for later drug abuse. At least two-thirds of patients in drug abuse treatment centers say they were physically or sexually abused as children.”

Early imprinting experiences make huge impacts on the perceptions and responses of adults, both human and canine.

Knowing this, it is important that you properly socialize your child… and you dog… for either to turn out healthy and well adjusted.

One area where people are likely to abuse their pups is in the process of house training. That is why I wrote a book called “100% Housetrained”.

Just recently, I received a call from someone who was complaining because their spouse was seriously spanking their 5 month old dog for urinating in the home. I told him that not only would this not get the dog to stop pottying in the house, it was abuse and illegal. They could be sent to jail for animal abuse.

I get calls like this all the time, in one form or another. That is why I wrote a book on house training. It was about time someone wrote the definitive guide on how to do it properly, so as to stop the abuse.

Here is the first chapter from my “100% Housetrained” book:

“Much of what you have heard, read and learned about house training a dog is wrong.

I have found most trainers, dog training books, veterinarians, groomers, kennel operators, breeders and dog owners don’t understand how to properly house train a dog. I felt it was about time someone correctly, clearly, specifically and completely taught dog owners the best way to house train any dog, regardless of the age or breed of dog. Some trainers think of you as an idiot if you can’t get your dog housetrained. But when you ask them for specifics on how to solve many of the house training problems people encounter, they run out of answers. They don’t know the answers.

When I see a dog owner having trouble house training their dog, I don’t consider them an idiot. I feel sorry for them because they are not enjoying their dog the way they could. And I feel sorry for the dog, because it doesn’t know what to do, and is oftentimes getting in trouble for things it doesn’t know how to solve on its own.

So here are my secrets to house training a dog properly. It is all here. This method has been proven to work over and over again. In this book, you have everything you need to know, and everything you want to know, about all aspects of house training.

The more books people write about dog training, the more difficulty dog owners are having figuring out the right solution to their house training problems. There is so much confusion, and so much bad advice hurting so many dogs, it was about time someone wrote a comprehensive book explaining everything about house training, especially how to do it the right way.

Over the years, this House training Program has been used to successfully train countless dogs and dog owners. This program has been used successfully with every type of house training problem imaginable. Because I have dealt with countless house training situations, I have been able to devise effective solutions to most house training problems.

For example, many people don’t believe their dogs can be housetrained. They let the problem go on so long, and make the problems so bad, they finally gave their dogs away because they didn’t know what else to do. Then the next owner has to do those things the first owners should have done right in the first place. Unfortunately, people end up applying either outdated or inappropriate methods to house train their dogs, and they end up wrecking many good dogs. Sometimes, the problems are so bad they can’t be fixed. It doesn’t have to work out that way. There are solutions to most dog training and behavioral problems. This book tells you all you need to know to do it properly.

If your dog isn’t housetrained, you are probably going to give your dog away. If you are at that point right now, you need to seriously ask everyone in your family: Who might end up being our dog’s new owner? Will the new owner abuse our dog? Will the new owner train our dog, or will they pass the problem along again to someone else? Could we be making mistakes that could end up wrecking our dog? Do we love our dog enough, as a family, to change what we are doing to make this work?

If you are having troubles house training your dog, then you need to buy this book, read it all the way through, and do everything suggested! You can’t count on the next owner doing it right, and you can’t count on the next owner treating your dog well. It is all up to you… but you aren’t alone, because this book is here to help make sure it works out. However…

You need to read EVERY word and every page of this book to understand it completely. Don’t skim through this book and expect it to work for you. There are reasons why each sentence and word is included in this book. This book is a result of many years of teaching dog owners how to have a dog which doesn’t defecate or urinate in the home. The real world examples used, the sequence of each point… everything… has been included to teach you important lessons so you do everything right with your dog!

Besides, who wants to step in, look at, or smell feces or urine on their floor? Who wants filth in their homes? I know I don’t! It is dirty and full of germs. When it comes to my dogs, I am willing to do whatever it takes to get my dog housetrained, and to do it right the first time.

House training is one of the most important lessons you can teach your dog. It is important because if you don’t get your dog housetrained, you will probably give your dog away to a shelter, or leave it outside indefinitely (which is a form of serious neglect and harmful to your dog). If house training is carried out in the wrong way, it can set off a huge number of other behavioral problems later on, such as problems with bonding, aggression, fearfulness, teaching the dog to run away from you, and difficulties in training obedience commands. So, if you do the house training incorrectly, you can wreck your relationship with your dog, and possibly make your dog unwanted by anyone else. Shelters are already overfilled with unwanted dogs. Unwanted dogs, if no one will adopt them, will eventually be killed by the shelter using a lethal injection or toxic gasses, to make room for dogs people will want to adopt. So, this is a life and death matter when it comes to your dog!

The first formal thing people teach their puppies is how to be clean indoors. House training is the first formal lesson we teach a puppy. This puppy doesn’t know anything, yet, the typical owner expects their dog to know what to do, and when the puppy potties in the house, the punishments start: hitting, yelling, slapping, rubbing their noses in feces, grabbing the pup by the collar, isolation in a laundry room or backyard, spraying with a squirt bottle… the list goes on and on. Now, none of this is fair to, or good for, the pup, nor is it good for an older dog. It isn’t fair because puppy pottying ISN’T a form of disobedience, requiring corrections and authority. These punishments aren’t good for the puppy, or any dog, since they teach them to fear the approaches of family members and doesn’t address teaching the dog how to potty outside and to be clean inside. Therefore, it should be clear, how you house train your dog will sets the stage for how your dog will relate to people for the rest of its life. You either make life go well, or you blow it, through abuse and neglect, and possibly wreck your dog to the point no one can fix what you have messed up. It is your choice.

However, most people, including many dog trainers, veterinarians, groomers, and even experienced dog people don’t know a thing about canine learning and behavior. So, they start yelling, screaming, spanking and chasing a puppy whenever it urinates or defecates in the house. They grab the pup by the collar, drag it over to the accident, and rub its face in the mess. They confine the pup to an indoor room, unsupervised, and force the pup to relieve itself indoors. Some leave the young dog alone too many hours, which either teaches the dog to hold its feces and urine for too many hours (and getting comfortable with being full and not emptying themselves, and thus never signaling they have to go potty), or causing health problems because the dogs aren’t relieving themselves frequently enough.

THEN THE BAD STUFF STARTS TO HAPPEN: If you treat a dog roughly, or neglect them, or do stupid training, you will pay a price. Sometimes the price is you have to put the dog to death, because you made the dog into a biter. Let’s say you are one of those people who yells, screams, chases, spanks, drags your puppy outdoors by the collar, and/or rubs your pups face in feces when it potties in your home. Should it be any surprise, when the dog is an adult, your dog is scared of you, or decides to fight back, or won’t come when called, or it bites you when it is handled around the collar, or it guards food and toys, or it still urinates and defecates in the house?

What so many people don’t realize is the rough handling they did with the pup at the beginning caused other serious behavioral problems once their dog became an adult. In the end, blaming the dog or the breed for problems which were in truth of their own creation, they abandon the dog to a shelter and get another dog, only to repeat the process all over again. If this isn’t a definition of animal abuse, what else would qualify?!

You might be saying to yourself at this point: "I DID DO all of this rough stuff with all of my previous dogs, and it worked." Well, maybe you were lucky. Or maybe others wouldn’t agree if they met your dog. Or maybe you had a dog who took what you dished out and still figured out how to potty outside. But the true test of a training method is whether it works for every dog, not just one dog. You see this all the time in the "dog world". You find all these so-called experts out there who only work with one breed of dog, or one type of dog, so they figure all dogs work their way. And when their stupid methods don’t work with your dog, well, "you must have a stupid dog!" Or "you are doing it wrong." Or you should get rid of "THAT" breed and get their breed. Well, there is a different solution: get another trainer! These folks are idiots and they will wreck your dog.

I don’t blame you. I blame bad training from poor quality trainers.

So here is your first homework:

a.) Read each and every page of this book!

b.) When you have read this whole book, from cover to cover, THEN begin house training your dog.

If you take shortcuts and skim the material, you will make mistakes and could set back your whole House training Program. The amount you paid to get this book is only a small percentage of what I have charged people to teach them in person how to house train their dogs. This book reveals many of my dog training secrets. This is the kind of information you won’t find in other books or training classes. So treat it this information with care, and DON’T LOSE THIS BOOK! OK, with that said… let’s begin!

This House training Program will work on normal dogs of any age and of any breed. This program will work for you and your situation. But, you must follow all these rules, with a good dose of common sense, or you will have flaws in your handling of the situation and your dog will continue to potty indoors.

As I’m writing this book, my current dog, a 5 year old Doberman, Dillon, is about to pass away as a result of an inherited heart disease called Cardiomyopathy (an abnormally enlarged heart). It is a result of poor breeding practices. Cardiomyopathy is particularly nasty for Dobermans, because once it manifests, they don’t live long. I have felt for a long time, if breeders want to eliminate these kinds of inherited diseases, they should collect semen and eggs from young breeding dogs, then hold onto them for 10 years. After 10 years, you test the living dogs for all the typical health related diseases, and the ones which are still healthy, you breed pups from the preserved semen and eggs. Similarly, with female dogs, they shouldn’t be bred until they are at least 5 years old. My experience is most genetic defects start showing up by the time a dog is 5 years old, whether it is blindness, allergies, hip dysplasia, heart disease, anxiety disorders, aggression disorders, or other common canine disorders and diseases.

I figure if a dog will live 10 years, and a bitch lives for 5 years, without manifesting any genetically inherited diseases, then they should be used for breeding. Too many breeders start breeding dogs as early as a year old, which is long before many serious genetic problems manifest. With modern science, within a generation, we could start to eliminate most of the debilitating and fatal diseases plaguing many of our dog breeds .

On a personal level, my friend, my pal, my dog is not going to live much longer. Yes, I’m sad. And I’ve been depressed about it since I learned of his condition.

They say he has about 3 to 6 weeks to live. So, I have him on several medications, I’m feeding him a special diet, and I’m trying to make it easier on his heart. Hopefully, all this effort will extend his life a bit longer.

One major side effect of the drugs is frequent urination. My dog now has to urinate frequently… all day, and all night long. It is like having a young puppy all over again.

One day, your dog might be in the same situation. Maybe not from heart disease, but from old age. When dogs get very old, their kidneys often start to fail. I remember when my dog, Kate, was about 10 years old, her kidneys started to fail as a result of old age. So she had to urinate every few hours, like my current dog.

In both cases, I was SO glad my dogs were housetrained!

Even though they had to urinate frequently, like young pups, they didn’t have any accidents in my home, because I could read when they had to go, and they let me know, as well.

At the same time, I’m now making plans to get a new pup. The sadness of losing current my dog will soon be replaced with joy through obtaining a new puppy. Yet, I’m going to have to start all over again with this new dog. He or she won’t know a thing about what to do, and I’m going to have to do all I’m going to instruct to you to do in this book to ensure my new pup gets housetrained properly, because I know: It’s no fun having a dog that isn’t housetrained.

It is no fun to have to clean up messes in your home. Is no fun to have a house or room which smells like stale urine. It is no fun to step in feces in your bedroom in the middle of the night.

I’ve experienced all of that, and I’ve learned the proper way to prevent and deal with those types of problems… and more. And I’m going to show it all to you in this book."

Is Your Dog House Trained? Are You Being Rough On Your Dog?

If you don’t know how to properly housetrain your dog, or know of someone who is being rough on their pup for pottying in the home, I suggest purchasing my book.

You can order my book, 100% Housetrained, by clicking HERE. You receive a 95 page book, plus email follow up for any specific questions you might have. The cost is $95. The book is NOT sold separately. This is a lesson, with personal follow up from me, a professional dog trainer and behaviorist.

Monday, November 21, 2005

If You Are A Cheapskate, Don't Get A Dog!

Pit Bulls & Children

Do you fear having Pit Bulls and kids together? I don’t.

A good dog is a good dog. A wacky dog is a wacky dog, regardless of the breed.

First, be a responsible dog owner. Then, buy a good dog from a reputable breeder, or adopt a good adult dog from a reputable shelter, and you are on the way to having a great pet.

Here are some great pit bull dog / kid photos. Pits and Kids

Adopt A Pit Bull!

Here is an excellent Pit Bull Rescue site… Adopt A Pit Bull

Check it out

How can you not love that face?!

What Good Is A Pit Bull For?

Here’s what they are good for!

POSITIVE PITBULL PRESS

It’s just a dog! Got it?

Find The Pitbull Dog: Why Breed Profiling Is A Waste Of Time

People have emailed this link to me a zillion times. But, it is worth passing on.

Take the test: FIND THE PITBULL

Sunday, November 20, 2005

My Interview With Dog Fancy Magazine

Several weeks ago, I was interviewed by a writer for Dog Fancy Magazine. I heard from a business associate that the article is in the January 2006 issue. It deals with Submissive Urination. You might want to check it out.