I am often asked what kind of dog should someone get. Setting aside rescuing a dog from a shelter, which I have covered extensively in other articles, and is a perfectly good option, this is about getting a purebred dog.
Since my focus is in training companion dogs, rather than selecting dogs for competition or professional work, my view on dogs is a bit different than what others would recommend.
I have a past student that was thinking of getting a Belgian Malinois. Fortunately, I talked her out of it. Yes, they look great with a top trainer and as a working dog. But, there is a lot more to it than that.
The pros will sift through many dogs before settling on one particular dog to use for competition or work, usually among a specific breed that tends to work the way they need it to for their purposes. They either start with a young puppy, and then decide at about 8 months of age whether to keep the dog or flip it to someone else. Or they skip getting a puppy, and only look at dogs that are generally 18 months of age or older, since many of the adult traits are now more evident. They aren't looking for a pet, and that is reflected in how they treat these dogs... as tools. The other thing is that a lot of these dogs never live the life of a pet, so they are kenneled when not in training or working, so you never see the side effects of whatever training was done with the dog. If the trainer does have a pet, it might be one of 15 other dogs that live with them as prospects. This is also true of breeders. They might have a dog that is their pet, and the rest are more raised as breeders and don't get that same kind of family time. Thus, what you see in the videos and promotions is staged, and not what you are going to have as a pet. You might just get one of the rejects.
Back to my student. She did not have the intention of doing serious competition or professional work with her dog. A good working Malinois isn't going to be a good suburban pet. Yes, her dogs have a good life, going places with her, and they get good companion training and a warm home environment. But that isn't sufficient for a working bred dog. I suggested that she get an Australian Cattle Dog, based upon what she likes doing with her dogs, the kind of responsiveness she likes, and since she lives in Arizona (where you should get a dog that is more heat tolerant). She got the pup at 8 weeks of age, and we began the public socialization and training from almost the first day. That dog has worked out well for her, and she has new stories to tell me every time we talk.
So, I rank those 500+ breeds on a scale of easy to difficult. A pet should come from the easy side of the spectrum rather than the difficult side. For example, let's say you get one of the mastiff type of flock guarding breeds, like a Portuguese Mastiff. The dog was bred to guard livestock in Portugal. It is large, suspicious of strangers, was never bred to go on long suburban walks or do obedience commands, since it is rare in the US the gene pool will be limited, and a big dog like that isn't going to adapt well to a suburban or urban lifestyle with a small yard. Instead the dog is going to be highly stressed and hypervigilant, and you are probably going to have to keep the dog away from most strangers and new guests entering the home. It won't be a good dog for a road trip since they are highly territorial and are not going to be settled going from place to place in a vehicle and living in one hotel to the next. It isn't going to be a good hiking buddy. And I wouldn't be surprised if the dog doesn't like other dogs, since their job is is to run off other predators that enter its territory. However, if you put this dog in the environment for which it was created, it will almost train itself. Take it out of that environment and try to raise it in your suburban or urban neighborhood and you will likely find it an expensive hassle. Thus, I would categorize such a breed as a difficult dog... as a pet.
Easy dogs should be a mid sized to smaller dog, affectionate with family and friends, good with well behaved children, good with other dogs, typically healthy as a breed, require minimal grooming, easy for you to pick up and carry, match your exercise and walking, live at least 10 years, sturdy, take well to training and perform at an above average level off leash, mildly territorial so they will bark at appropriate times but not a guard or personal protection breed, will play fetch and tug, easily examined and handled, and an "easy keeper" (meaning they aren't finicky about eating).
If you are more experienced with dogs, then you might go up a notch beyond "easy" to something a bit more specialized. A little larger or smaller, a bit more active and athletic.
I would advise most people to stay away from the latest "ultimate guard dog" breed of the moment. Different breeds crop up each decade that fit this description. They are promoted as being as good as a police dog, but the real truth is they haven't the drive, aptitudes or physical traits to do that job. They are a rip off for most pet owners, spending thousands of dollars on a dog that will never be a pleasure to own.
The difficult dogs are the ones that are bred to do real, specialized work... high level hunting, police/ military, competition, herding, flock guarding, etc. dogs are too much for a pet home. Put them in the environment for which they were created, do the type of training necessary, and they will excel. Put them in a pet home, and eventually the dog will have to be rehomed because it can't adapt. It is unfair to bring a working bred dog into a pet home to live and do only pet things.
A lot of the fine easy pet breeds are relatively rare and are bred by committed hobbyists. But that is the type of dog that will most likely be the dog that will work out best for you in the long run, and be good for the dog, too.
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